The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

We survived the Inca Trail and made it to Machu Picchu in one piece - if a little wet. We knew when we booked our trek that January is mid rainy season in Peru and so we expected at least some rain and Pachamama (Mother Earth) didn't disappoint. In fact, bar the first day's easy walk, it rained every day. Having said that, we had a wonderful time. Despite the weather, the scenery that was visible was outstanding and the ruins of Machu Picchu city are incredible. We had been told that we would really enjoy this trek and we really did. The tour company that we went with were great. The tents were dry, the food was out of this world and the porters super human! We certainly made the right decision in opting to pay a little extra and hire a third of a porter to carry some of our stuff as it meant that we could trek with only our day packs and not have the extra weight during the often steep uphill sections of the trek.

We were met by our tour guide and bus outside our hostel on the first morning of the trek (at a very unearthly hour) and proceeded to collect the other fourteen members of our trekking group. After an hours driving to Ollyantaytambo we stopped for a breakfast of pancakes to fuel the first day's trekking and got to know some of our fellow trekkers - a mixed group of travellers from UK, USA, Canada and Australia. As we began our trek and got our passports stamped at the official entrance to the Inca Trail, the sun shone down making the walk a beautiful one and lulling us all in to a false sense of security. Our first lunch stop (halfway to our first campsite) gave us our first insight into the food and service that we got throughout our four day journey. A dining tent had been erected; handwashing bowls, soap and towels placed outside so that we could wash our hands before eating and cutlery wrapped in paper napkins was laid out on the linen clad table...who knew camping could be like this (especially camping in the Andes!). The food itself was absolutely incredible. I'd opted for the vegetarian menu and my first meal consisted on vegetable stuffed advocados - wow! In fact the food was a real highlight throughout the trek. Our chef worked wonders with food carried by porters from the last town and treated us to a three course meal twice a day aswell as pancakes or omlettes for breakfast...amazing!

The mornings started early with 5.30am (and even one 4am) wakeup calls, accompanied by a hot cup of coffee and breakfast while the porters expertly packed away the tents and other equipment. We started walking at 7am (5am on the last morning) in order to arrive at our camp fairly early. We'd been warned that the second day of walking (an ascent to the hightest point of the trek - Dead Woman's Pass - at 4200m) was a challenging one. Considering that it quite literally poured with rain for the entire climb (parts of which are very steep indeed) it really wasn't that bad. Our few days in Cusco had obviously helped us with acclimatisation and we made it to the top and down the other side unscathed by the experience. It was only a shame that the rain and low cloud prevented us from seeing what surely would have been a spectacular view from the top.

The third day's walking (the longest) was the most enjoyable. The rain was on and off but the trail was just as I'd imagined it to be. Large stones laid into the ground with steep steps and tunnels winding their way around the lush hillsides. At the third camp we'd been told to expect a hot shower and the opportunity to buy food and beer. The beer went down very well as we played cards after dinner (but my shower was certainly not hot!). The final day of the trek means a very early start in order to trek to the Sun Gate for an unspoilt view of Machu Picchu city (minus the tourists). After a bit of speed march we arrived at the 'Sun Gate' to be greeted by nothing but a view of the low lying cloud. We couldn't even make out which direction Machu Picchu was in! Needless to say, we didn't stay long and made our way down to Machu Picchu itself (which we could see close up). I'd be lying if I said that I wasn't a little disappointed that we weren't treated to the picture postcard view of this amazing Inca city but it was spectacular to be there nonetheless and we felt a small sense of achievement at having trekked such an iconic trail and made it to the end still smiling.

After some time spent touring the ruined city we descended to the town of Agua Calientes where we spent the few hours waiting for our train back to Cusco eating pizza and playing cards. The train ride itself was very long and after three nights of camping (and a distinct lack of sleep) it felt a bit torturous, but we eventually arrived back at our hotel and I had the best night's sleep I think I've ever had!

Today we've spent the day in Cusco. We ate a hearty breakfast and treated ourselves to a £3.50 massage (a whole hour!) to ease our weary muscles...money well spent. Tomorrow we head to Puno by train from where we will visit Lake Titicaca. More on that later.

Cusco & The Sacred Valley of the Inca's

Hello from Cusco, where we have been since Monday afternoon. Arriving here (3326m) from sea level in Lima we have both felt a little short of breath and I've had a fairly persistent headache which I've put down to the altitude. That aside, we're having a lovely time is this beautiful town. On Monday afternoon we did a little exploring of the centre of the town and yesterday was spent organising some logistics for our trek to Machu Picchu and our onward travel to Puno. After much deliberation we have decided to travel by train to Puno rather than bus. Although the bus is quite a bit faster, we are both a bit sick of bus travel and are keen to take advantage of the few opportunities to travel by train that are on offer in South America. That decision made we then had to decide whether to travel 'Backpacker Class' (I'll leave that up to your imagination) or 'First Class', there is no in between. The price difference is about 80% and we know we really should have gone for the cheaper option but we threw caution to the wind and splashed out, lured by the glass roofed viewing cabin, lunch, afternoon tea and white linen table cloths...not sure we have the correct attire for this trip on Peru's 'Orient Express'! We have an extra day in Cusco after our trek (to recover and because the train only leaves on certain days) and will be on our way by rail to Puno on 23rd January.

Back to the present then. While paying the balance of our trek fee at our tour company, Peru Treks, we enquired about the best way to visit the Sacred Valley. We really wanted to visit on Wednesday (today) as that way we would avoid the large tour groups which visit on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Not enjoying following someone holding a flag or jostling our way to the front of a good view point in order to catch a picture (which inevitably includes someone else catching snap of the very same thing), we wanted to hire a guide and driver and visit the valley alone. Peru Treks organised the whole day for us at a reasonable price with a taxi and English speaking guide. We were collected from our hostel at 8am this morning and have had a wonderful day exploring the Inca ruins of Pisac, Ollaytaytambo and Chinchero along with local markets and a llama/alpaca breeding site to boot!

The llama/alpaca site is run by locals and designed to explain the differences between the animals and demonstrate how alpaca wool is dyed and woven into the intricate wall hangings and shawls that stock the shops and market stalls of Cusco and the surrounding towns. The time and skill involved in this weaving process is quite phenomenal and the most intricate hangings can take many months to complete. Natural dyes are created using plants, herbs and even parasites of cacti plants and are then mixed with lemon juice to produce numerous colours and shades. The wool is dyed over an oven for up to four hours per batch and then hung to dry. The women of the Andean highlands pass the skills of weaving on to their daughters and spend hours at a time strapped to their weaving looms threading the wool into detailed patterns representing various aspects of their culture and Pachamama (Mother Earth). The results are beautiful and so unmistakably Andean.

After perusing the rather expensive gallery and shop at the site, we moved on to our first Inca fortress perched dramatically above Pisac (the market town of the same name). Arriving early and on a quiet day we were afforded an unspoiled view of the whole site which was spectacular. The ruins are well preserved and we stood awe inspired at the skill and sophistication that this ancient civilisation employed in their creating it. The irrigation system (still working successfully even if unemployed today) puts that of modern Peru to shame and the accurate (even perfect) brickwork and stone carving was almost unfathomable. The Inca citadel at Pisac is famous for it's extensive agricultural terracing which is still very much in place (though not used) and makes for quite a sight whether looking up at it from the road or down on it from the ceremonial centre of the site (complete with its circular Inithuantana or temple of the sun - seen in the picture above).

After an hour or so walking around the site, we headed in to the market town of Pisac for a lunch of empanadas (think Peruvian pasties) which were delicious and a stroll around the handicrafts market where I bought a necklace (which represents the Inca calender) and we haggled hard on a soft alpaca blanket which we now have to try to post home...hmm!

The day continued with a drive along the lush valley of the Urubamba river and visits to the Inca fortress at Ollantaytambo (where the whole town is set amongst the cobbled Inca streets and has been continuously inhabited since the 13th century) and Chinchero (known to the Inca's as the birthplace of the rainbow) which beautifully combines Inca ruins with a magnificent colonial church set at the highest point of the village.

All in all this has been a fantastic day topped off with a tasting of the local brew - Chica (fermented corn beer) served plain or with a strawberry flavour and a game of 'Sapo'. Feeling a little more acclimatised, I'm now looking forward to leaving for the trek to Machu Picchu on Friday and will take the opportunity to visit the musems and galleries of the town of Cusco tomorrow along with stocking up on snacks and an all encompassing plastic waterproof poncho necessary for trekking during the rainy season in the Andes.

Buses and Planes!

After a short blogging hiatus, I'm back online. We seem to have spent alot of time travelling and in transit over recent days and it's nice to have finally arrived in Cusco where we will be based for the next few days while we acclimatise for the Inca Trail trek. After an uneventful stay in the commerical city of Guayaquil we left via an Ormeno 'Royal Class' bus bound for Lima, Peru...a mere 24 hour ride away. The bus as it turned out was not too bad, if not fit for royalty, and the passengers a mix of Ecaudorians, Peruvians and a few of backpackers, although we happened to be seated next to two young Jesuit nuns (not big on conversation and both Simon and I were a little hesitant to initiate it for fear of breaking some unknown protocol!).

The double decker bus, although old, was fairly comfortable and the seats did recline a fair way so I even managed a few hours of sleep. The driver seemed relatively restrained in his driving for the most part and we made it through immigration both out of Ecuador and into Peru without a hitch. Due to some considerable roadworks on the Pan-American Highway fairly soon into our journey we managed to lose alot of time (which the driver decided to try to make up on the cliff top road into Lima...a little hair-raising to say the least - again I thought of you Dad!). Our stops were very seldom and I must admit the last few agonising hours were not easy as we lurched through heavy traffic on the outskirts of Lima. My relief at arriving was tinged by the exhaustion of the journey (who would know that sitting still for so long can be so tiring!). Thankfully we had chosen a really lovely hostel for our stay in the capital of Peru. Hostal El Patio is on a quiet street in the heart of Miraflores (the waterfront district of the city) and really was a sanctuary of calm and quiet. Based around a central courtyard full of flowers and birds we were on the first floor looking down over the sun terrace below and felt far removed from the busy city outside of the gates. We'd been told by many people that Miraflores feels European and they weren't wrong. It's a very developed district of Lima and is home to a waterfront shopping mall filled with high end shops, bars and restaurants all looking down over the beach and surfers below. I must admit to a little retail therapy and an indulgent frappacino in Starbucks. I know it's not really in keeping with our trip but we couldn't resist!

After a couple of days in Lima sightseeing and relaxing we headed to the airport this morning at the ungodly hour of 3.30am to catch our 5.30am flight to Cusco. Everything was going swimmingly (despite the turbulent flight) until we began our descent into Cusco at which point the pilot informed us that the weather conditions were too poor to land and that we would need to be diverted to Lima...diverted - we'd just come from Lima! After some considerable passenger groaning and an hour's return flight we landed at Lima airport where we were told that we had to stay on the plane as we would be taking off again in an hour...bound for Cusco. We did take off (not within the hour) and after another turbulent flight and the sportiest (as Simon choses to refer to it...terrifying I say) landing I've ever had the pleasure of experiencing we did get to Cusco (only just skimming the mountain tops on the way down). We are now safely ensconced in our hostel which again is just lovely. Another courtyard theme but this time hidden behind an original Incan doorway which in a bygone year lead to a sacred place. Here we rest and acclimatise for our Inca Trail trek which begins on Friday and from what I've seen so far, I can't think of a better place to hang out.

Website blog working again...

I know...don't hold your breath - it might be offline again next time I try to update. But for now, to make life easier for you and me it's up and running. Please try to leave your comments directly on the website. I'm going to have a go now to make sure that it works.

We are now in Guayaquil (with a great internet connection hence the website fixing) just for the night after a beautiful bus trip from Cuenca through the Parque Nacional Cajas reaching almost 4000m in altitude. Guayaquil is on the Ecuadorian coast and is not really a tourist town but we're hoping for a good meal by the water tonight. Fingers crossed.

Tomorrow we catch the bus for our epic 24 hour journey to Lima. Think of us as you sink into your comfy beds for the night :)

S

Cuenca and the Montecristi

We thought we'd left ridiculously early mornings behind us when we left The Beagle and her 'sunrise breakfasts' in the Galapagos. However, in order to capitalise on the cheapest flights we had to catch a very early one to Cuenca on Wednesday morning. Cuenca was originally in our itinerary and was then dropped due to time constraints and added once again when our plans for travelling to Peru changed from air to overland. Cuenca was one city that I had always been really keen to see and so I was really pleased that we were able to squeeze in a flying visit on our way south. After a 5am start with hot coffee and filled bagels to take away, provided by the Magic Bean hostel, we made our way to the airport and on to the 7am TAME flight to Ecuador's most beautiful city.

During our stay in Ecuador so far we have felt somewhat cheated that due to low cloud we had yet to see the high peaks and volcanoes that the highlands of the country are so famous for. Simon even managed to get very close to the top of one without ever actually seeing it in all its glory. We were thrilled then that an early morning flight above the clouds afforded us a spectacular view of the high Andes. We witnessed the top of Ecuador's highest peak, Volcan Chimborazo; the beautiful beast that is Volcan Cotopaxi; the jagged cresent peaks of El Altar and the clouds of steam and ash billowing from the crater of 'Little Hell' or Volcan Tungurahua which can be seen in the picture above. The view certainly made up for the somewhat bumpy ride and landing that often goes hand in hand with small commuter plane travel.

And so to Cuenca, the colonial jewel of the south. In 1999 Unesco declared the centre of Cuenca a World Heritage Site and it does not take long to work out why. Beautiful architecture lines the cobbled streets and domed churches nestle comfortably amongst the red tiled roofs of whitewashed buildings. Upon leaving the airport it was instantly obvious that this city is different from any other we've visited so far. It feels less frantic and is 'cleaner' somehow. The parks are beautifully maintained and there is a feeling of greater wealth amongst its population. Although a relatively popular tourist destination we saw very few gringos roaming the city's streets. Obviously equipped to deal with the busy tourist months though, the city owns one open top bus which it uses to take passengers on a tour of the city and up the hill to a viewing point. Although the tour was entirely in Spanish, we did hop on board and made the most of seeing as much of the city as we could in the short time that we had.

Tour over we went in search of Cuenca's most famous export...the Montecristi hat. Globally known as a Panama hat, this woven sombrero de paja toquilla (toquilla straw hat) actually originates in Ecuador. It's 'Panama' name dates back to the 1800s when Spanish entrepreneurs began exporting them to Europe via Panama and workers on the Panama canal used them as protection from the fierce sun. Cuenca is home to the 'Panama' hat museum, several large export companies and many independent, traditional hatters. Keen to sample the local trade we briefly visited the museum and then made our way to the Casa del Sombrero Alberto Pulla. Alberto Pulla is a Cuencan in his 80s who learnt the hat trade from his father from the age of 6. He both refurbishes old hats and finishes new ones and we were thrilled to find him in his workshop. He showed us the hats that he is refurbishing and then took us upstairs to his shop so that Simon could find the perfect Montecristi for himself. He is a delightful man who, although unable to speak, conveys his intentions and delight perfectly when he fits Simon with his handiwork. After demonstrating how to roll the panama up to fit into a pocket or in our case a small wooded box for travel, he signs and dates the box to Simon mi amigo. What a special souvenir!

Galapagos

I know that I had promised to write my blog updates offline each day while sailing around the Galapagos but I confess that I didn't get that far. While Simon typed feverishly and edited his photos below deck early each evening, I spent my time on deck taking in the last of the daylight. Mostly, I was chatting to our fellow sailors but on one or two occasions I was concentrating hard on the horizon! So...I'll have to summarise the experience which will not be easy as it was truly out of this world. We knew that this part of our trip was going to be special but I don't think that either of us was really prepared for the magnificence of each island and its unusual inhabitants.

We arrived at the airport on Baltra on New Years Day, a little unsure of what awaited us. We were met by our wonderful and exceptionally knowledgeable guide, Camilo, at the airport and were swiftly transferred along with the eleven other guests to our home on the water, The Beagle. A welcome cocktail greeted us on board which we drank while the crew attended to our luggage. I'm not sure how dangerous it is to have such a luxurious portion of the trip so early on. I guess I'll have some adjusting to do now as I get reacquainted with the budget hostel lifestyle! The yacht was beautiful. There was plenty of room on deck to sit and read or lie in the sun and we ate all of our meals around a large dining table at the rear of the boat. We were fed like kings by our on board chef, Miguel (who is a published author and has a very interesting story to tell about being lost at sea, presumed dead, for 77 days!) and our every need was attended to by the professional and friendly crew and El Capitano. Our fellow passengers were a diverse mix hailing from England, Scotland, Switzerland and USA and at 13, far from unlucky, we were the perfect number. As we passed or anchored close to larger motor cruisers we appreciated the tranquility of the small group and the fact that we were all able to fit into one Zodiac dingy for trips to and from the land. No queuing for us! We were in cabin two which was small but perfectly formed. It came complete with an upper and lower bunk, under-bed storage, air conditioning and a full en-suite with hot shower...providing you got below deck and into it before the majority of the other guests! Every two days our towels were renewed and laid out in like fancy linen origami on our beds. My personal favourite was the 'swan' shaped towel, I was informed that this always happens on cruises and that you can even purchase 'how to' books so that you can pursue towel origami at home!!!

So...to the 'Islands of Fire' themselves. There was no gradual introduction to their awe inspiring beauty. We were dropped off at our first island, North Seymour, just an hour or two after boarding the boat and it was magical. I took over 250 photos within about 2 hours and was overwhelmed to be wandering amongst the infamous inhabitants of these mystical islands. In that first visit we witnessed an abundance of Blue Footed Boobies, Sea Lions, Frigate Birds, Pelicans, Iguanas, Gulls, Cacti, Lizards and more. The documentaries make the Galapagos out to be diverse, dramatic, volcanic, wondrous and abundantly populated (in the natural sense) islands where you can walk amongst animals and plants who are uninhibited and undisturbed by your presence. They are right. In fact the most difficult thing to get to grips with is to remember to keep looking at the path in front of you to ensure that you do not step on the tail of a resting iguana or disturb a nesting Boobie. The weird and wonderful (and at times prehistoric looking) animals are literally strewn across paths and the birds fill the sky and trees with their dancing and shrill calls to attract mates. It is quite literally beyond comprehension.

Our eight days on board The Beagle were spent navigating from one island to another to observe the diverse qualities of each. We were also lucky enough to snorkel on most days and the underwater world didn't fail to disappoint either. We swam with playful sea lions, elegant sting ray, sea turtles, rainbow coloured fish and the slightly intimidating White Tipped Reef Shark. Having never snorkelled before I feel priveledged to have had my first experience in such a magical location.

On one day we visited the most populated island of Santa Cruz where the Darwin Centre is housed. It was here that we were introduced to one of the Galapagos' most famous residents...Lonesome George the giant land tortoise. We met him along with his friends at a breeding centre and then in the wild further into the island. These bizarre creatures were utterly fascinating and although fairly sedentary most of the time, displayed quite aggressive personalities when food was around, fighting each other for the last green leaf or the best patch of grass.

I could go on and on forever about how wonderful this part of the trip has been. I will leave out the occasional sea sickness and the lack of sleep caused by night navigation as it pales into insignificance when I think about how much I learned and what a magical experience I have had. Don't forget to check out the photo gallery on my website under the South America heading.

If you ever get the chance to go to the Galapagos, jump at it.

S

Quito old town and New Years Eve

Having returned from our trip to Cotopaxi National Park we have spent the last two days back in Quito, staying in The Magic Bean hostel and doing the sightseeing we missed out on when we first arrived. Yesterday we spent most of the day in the 'Old Town' which is very different from 'Gringolandia' where we are staying. The old part of Quito is beautiful. It's full of magnificent colonial architecture along with large plazas where people gather to sing, dance and generally people watch. We visited churches, museums and a wonderful cafe set high above Quito with incredible views over the city. We've also been really lucky with the weather over the past couple of days and have been enjoying almost unbroken sunshine, the first we've seen since we arrived in the country.

Today is New Years Eve which is a very big deal here in Quito. Preparations started very early this morning and many roads have been closed for the day. New Year celebrations begin a few days before the 31st here in Ecuador with processions, dancing and music. During our walk around the old part of town yesterday we bumped in to a procession on it's way to the Plaza de San Francisco. It was made up of bands, dancers, drummers, clowns, men on stilts and the obligatory men dressed as women (it seems to be a new year theme of sorts here!). Today the main street in our area of Quito is closed and effigies line the pavements alongside bands both traditional and modern and food stalls. The streets have been packed with whole families in fancy dress and an inordinate number of police and security guards. Having been warned of the dangers of Quito at night, we decided to take a look during daylight hours and stick to our hostel after dark. Hopefully we'll catch a glimpse of the effigies burning as they are set alight at midnight. These 'puppets' represent all sorts of well known people and characters and we've seen everything from Bart Simpson and the Ecuadorian football team to Fidel Castro! The celebration seems to be an opportunity to vent political frustrations and as a result George Bush becomes is a regular sight when strolling down Ave. Amazonas!

Early tomorrow morning we leave for an 8 day cruise around the islands of the Galapagos. This is a part of the trip that we have been especially looking forward to and having checked the weather forecast it looks as though we're in for a warm and sunny week. We will be based on a yacht called the Beagle and will sail between the islands finding out about their unique habitats and wildlife. We won't have internet access while we are there but plan to write blog updates offline and upload them when we get back to Quito. We're particularly looking forward to the photo opportunities - be sure to check out our photo galleries when we get back.

Today was also a day of administration. Due to the ridiculous price of flying between Ecuador and Peru we've decided to change our plans a little (check out the itnerary on my website for more details) and travel overland to Lima by bus - should be an interesting 24 hours!

I hope you all have a wonderful new year's eve and wish you all a very happy 2008. I'm just off now to buy Simon a dress...while in Rome!