Thursday 10 April 2008

Football and Tango in Beautiful Buenos Aires

Since the very beginning of this trip (4 months ago now) I've been really looking forward to our stay in Buenos Aires. Everyone who's been here seems to return in love with this city and I couldn't wait to get here to find out what they were raving about. I must admit, I've come away also in love! Described in books as the 'Amercian Paris', Buenos Aires is a wonderful melting pot of cosmopolitan city life and eclectic, bohemian neighbourhoods begging to be explored. We arrived after an overnight bus trip (this time on a completely flat bed) from Mendoza and checked into our hostel in the bohemian 'antique quarter' of the city called San Telmo. It was a Saturday morning and the coffee shops and antiques stores were beginning to open as we made our way towards the main square in the area where we sat and drank coffee amongst the throng of local stall traders setting up for the day. The San Telmo area is famous for it's Sunday antiques market and numerous antiques stores lining the streets. Throughout the day it filled with serious antiques buyers and many tourists browsing the bric a brac stalls and crafts. I indulged my shopping fetish by purchasing some hand designed and made clothes which will be perfect as we continue our travels in hotter climes (no longer any need for the thermals and gortex!).

The next five days in the capital went by really quickly as we packed in as much sight seeing and exploring as we could manage. On our first evening we signed ourselves up for a local football match between the well known Boca Juniors and another BA team. This was the first football match I've ever been to and although I won't be giving up my rugby season ticket in favour of the round ball, I did enjoy it. The Boca fans are notorious in their volume and abuse of the opposition - they didn't disappoint (I wouldn't have wanted to play for the opposition) as things were thrown on to the pitch and general abuse was hurled at the players! I was very glad to have picked up a Boca shirt on the way to the stadium and we all joined in heartily with the singing (not sure what we were actually saying), whistling and clapping - there was no mistaking our allegiance.

On another of the nights we went to a Tango dinner show. Very touristy I know but we couldn't resist. The tango dancing on the streets is wonderful but the dancing and singing at the show was just amazing. As devout Strictly Come Dancing fans, we were both keen to see a Flavia/Vincent style Argentine tango in all its glory and the show lived up to our high expectations with plenty of leg flicking and drama. Walking around the streets in Buenos Aires it is hard not to be drawn in by the artists, dancers and musicians who jostle for space (both physical space and silence) to demonstrate their particular art. On Sunday in San Telmo we came across an amazing classical guitarist playing flamenco style music with enormous passion. We were enthralled for quite a while as was the rest of the huge crowd he'd drawn. It's impossible to be bored in Buenos Aires.

Our remaining days in BA were spent visiting wonderful art galleries, strolling around the varied neighbourhoods, wandering through the infamous cemetary in Recoleta (home to Eva Peron's (Evita) grave), eating delicious steak and bizarrely meeting up with friends (it really is a small world). We randomly bumped in to a couple who'd been on our Antarctic cruise and had a good chat with them. The following morning we received a message at our hostel saying that another couple from the cruise were in the city and would like to meet for lunch, which was lovely. We also met up with Elisa (and her sister) who we'd had the pleasure of meeting while we stayed at Estancia Despedida on Tierra del Fuego. She's studying in BA and we met up for delicious ice-cream and a catch up.

All in all we had a wonderful time. Five days and nights is just not long enough in this intoxicating city (although our wallets would take a hit if we stayed any longer - resisting the fabulous shopping was exceptionally challenging!). We both agree that we'd love to come back, and I for one can't wait.

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