Tuesday, 22 January 2008

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

We survived the Inca Trail and made it to Machu Picchu in one piece - if a little wet. We knew when we booked our trek that January is mid rainy season in Peru and so we expected at least some rain and Pachamama (Mother Earth) didn't disappoint. In fact, bar the first day's easy walk, it rained every day. Having said that, we had a wonderful time. Despite the weather, the scenery that was visible was outstanding and the ruins of Machu Picchu city are incredible. We had been told that we would really enjoy this trek and we really did. The tour company that we went with were great. The tents were dry, the food was out of this world and the porters super human! We certainly made the right decision in opting to pay a little extra and hire a third of a porter to carry some of our stuff as it meant that we could trek with only our day packs and not have the extra weight during the often steep uphill sections of the trek.

We were met by our tour guide and bus outside our hostel on the first morning of the trek (at a very unearthly hour) and proceeded to collect the other fourteen members of our trekking group. After an hours driving to Ollyantaytambo we stopped for a breakfast of pancakes to fuel the first day's trekking and got to know some of our fellow trekkers - a mixed group of travellers from UK, USA, Canada and Australia. As we began our trek and got our passports stamped at the official entrance to the Inca Trail, the sun shone down making the walk a beautiful one and lulling us all in to a false sense of security. Our first lunch stop (halfway to our first campsite) gave us our first insight into the food and service that we got throughout our four day journey. A dining tent had been erected; handwashing bowls, soap and towels placed outside so that we could wash our hands before eating and cutlery wrapped in paper napkins was laid out on the linen clad table...who knew camping could be like this (especially camping in the Andes!). The food itself was absolutely incredible. I'd opted for the vegetarian menu and my first meal consisted on vegetable stuffed advocados - wow! In fact the food was a real highlight throughout the trek. Our chef worked wonders with food carried by porters from the last town and treated us to a three course meal twice a day aswell as pancakes or omlettes for breakfast...amazing!

The mornings started early with 5.30am (and even one 4am) wakeup calls, accompanied by a hot cup of coffee and breakfast while the porters expertly packed away the tents and other equipment. We started walking at 7am (5am on the last morning) in order to arrive at our camp fairly early. We'd been warned that the second day of walking (an ascent to the hightest point of the trek - Dead Woman's Pass - at 4200m) was a challenging one. Considering that it quite literally poured with rain for the entire climb (parts of which are very steep indeed) it really wasn't that bad. Our few days in Cusco had obviously helped us with acclimatisation and we made it to the top and down the other side unscathed by the experience. It was only a shame that the rain and low cloud prevented us from seeing what surely would have been a spectacular view from the top.

The third day's walking (the longest) was the most enjoyable. The rain was on and off but the trail was just as I'd imagined it to be. Large stones laid into the ground with steep steps and tunnels winding their way around the lush hillsides. At the third camp we'd been told to expect a hot shower and the opportunity to buy food and beer. The beer went down very well as we played cards after dinner (but my shower was certainly not hot!). The final day of the trek means a very early start in order to trek to the Sun Gate for an unspoilt view of Machu Picchu city (minus the tourists). After a bit of speed march we arrived at the 'Sun Gate' to be greeted by nothing but a view of the low lying cloud. We couldn't even make out which direction Machu Picchu was in! Needless to say, we didn't stay long and made our way down to Machu Picchu itself (which we could see close up). I'd be lying if I said that I wasn't a little disappointed that we weren't treated to the picture postcard view of this amazing Inca city but it was spectacular to be there nonetheless and we felt a small sense of achievement at having trekked such an iconic trail and made it to the end still smiling.

After some time spent touring the ruined city we descended to the town of Agua Calientes where we spent the few hours waiting for our train back to Cusco eating pizza and playing cards. The train ride itself was very long and after three nights of camping (and a distinct lack of sleep) it felt a bit torturous, but we eventually arrived back at our hotel and I had the best night's sleep I think I've ever had!

Today we've spent the day in Cusco. We ate a hearty breakfast and treated ourselves to a £3.50 massage (a whole hour!) to ease our weary muscles...money well spent. Tomorrow we head to Puno by train from where we will visit Lake Titicaca. More on that later.

1 comment:

freddie wrigelhoffen said...

Hi Sarah, Freddie here again! Glad to see you survived the Inca Trail and had such a good time (I remember when we were going out you always said you wanted to do it!) I thought I would post a comment given that you don't seem to have many people posting at the moment (come on Claire, get posting, you've slowed up a bit)