Drake's Passage - an experience!

After a day pottering around in Ushuaia (I think it's fair to say we know this small town very well now!) we made our way to the passenger terminal at the port and boarded a GAP Adeventures bus bound for the MS Polaris: the Russian ice-strengthened boat that was to be our home for the next 10 days. As we approached along the pier, our little boat appeared dwarfed by the other vessels docked alongside her and it was at this point that I was both grateful for the small capacity of our cruise (65ish passengers) and a little worried at how much she might move in the swell of the Southern Ocean.

It's fair to say that Drake's Passage has a bit of a reputation for turning those with even the strongest stomachs and most hardy sea legs into whimpering, bed-ridden individuals begging for mercy as they are tossed around on the mighty Southern Ocean. With postcards for sale all over Ushuaia stating things such as "I've survived Drake's Passage", and even a Drake's Passage 'experiences board' in the local bookshop, I was more than a little concerned that no amount of Dramamine would keep me from my bunk! But, it was hard to believe the stories as we set sail along the glass like Beagle Channel, spotting Dolphins and sea birds and watching the sun set over the receeding mountains of southern Argentina and Chile.

With all the orientation stuff sorted we had a good dinner and began getting to know our fellow passengers over a drink in the bar. I had no trouble falling asleep that night with the gentle motion of the boat and dreams of what would await us in the mighty White Continent. However, I was woken up in the early hours of the morning by some fairly violent sideways motion of the boat which, considering the layout of our cabin and bunks, meant that we were tipped from one end of our bed (standing on the outside wall of the cabin) to the other (protecting my head from hitting the wall with my hands). I had followed instructions and taken my Dramamine (sea sickness) tablets before bed and thankfully in a lying position didn't feel sickness of any kind. No sickness...and no sleep! As the boat continued to sway from side to side at increasingly precarious angles and our belongings swam around on floor of our cabin I concentrated on trying to wedge myself into my bunk and make it through the rest of the night.

Our morning call by the ever cheery expedition leader brought no respite from the swell of the Drake, but determined that it must be mind over matter, I got myself out of bed and even (such a maratime amateur) into the shower. It was quite an experience trying to wash my hair at the same time as clinging onto the wall bars for dear life and probably not the best way to start my day. Feeling like I'd been through the spin cycle of the washing machine, I followed Simon upstairs to the dining room for breakfast. However, while waiting to be called I was overcome by nausea and retreated hastily to our cabin where Simon later found me clinging to the toilet bowl. I have felt sea sickness before but thankfully it has never progressed beyond a feeling of nausea. This time was different...feeling a complete lack of control I was sick before I'd even been to breakfast and had to lie down in my cabin for the next few hours before I felt able to try the vertical position again. The rest of the day passed in an uncomfortable haze of dramamine fuelled semi-conciousness, although I did make it to the brilliant and informative lectures given by our expedition team and the remaining meals of the day.

I had just about managed to adapt to the motion of the boat on day one of the Drake's Passage crossing when day two dawned. I could tell that the boat was moving alot more on day two by the angle reached by our waterproof jackets (hanging on the wall of the cabin) each time the boat swayed from side to side. I didn't make breakfast on day two either and was incredibly relieved when it was announced that lunch would be served to cabins (it meant that most people were feeling as bad as me). I did venture up for dinner where chairs and people were sliding from one side of the dining room to the other and many laps got a soaking from toppled drinks. I was relieved to hear that this is the worst crossing of the Drake so far this season and that I was justified in feeling a little under the weather. Thankfully as we entered calmer waters that evening people began to emerge from their short hibernation and the excitement at approaching Antarctica began to heighten.